The Lafayette Square neighborhood is bounded by Chouteau on the north, Highway 44 on the south, E. Doman to the east, and South Jefferson to the west.
What began as the old commons far from the city’s hub became a prominent residential area, only to fall into decades of decline—and eventually be brought back to life.
Early History and Formation
Lafayette Square was formed from the city’s old commons. Located west of St. Louis’ central core, land was set aside in 1767 for common use.
Early settlers were granted 40 arpent strips in the commons and shared pasture for livestock.
By Victorian times, the area was still wooded and dangerous, with outlaws camping and robbing travelers.
In 1835, the Missouri Legislature allowed the city to sell the commons for residential use, dedicating 1/10th of the proceeds to public schools.
Boundaries of the square were established with wide 120-foot streets: Mississippi Ave (east), Missouri Ave (west), Park Ave (north), and Lafayette Ave (south).
On March 21, 1836, the Board of Aldermen officially ordained the park, creating the neighborhood’s centerpiece.
Land around the square was surveyed and subdivided in 1837—the city’s 4th residential subdivision.
Early Development
In 1838, William Page bought the first tract near the park for a country estate.
Early residents were a mix of middle- and working-class folks who built homes as they could afford.
Development was slow due to the Panic of 1837 and legal disputes over land ownership.
By 1850, the city regained ownership of many parcels due to missed payments—except for Archibald Campbell’s land.
By 1851, men like Charles Gibson, David Nicholson, and Edward Bredell began constructing Italianate mansions along Lafayette Ave.
Prominent figures such as Charles Gibson, Archibald Gamble, John C. Rust, and Edward Bredell helped promote Lafayette Square as a first-class neighborhood.
Stephen Barlow developed the east side with a large 3-story brick mansion at Mississippi Ave and Kennett Place.
Growth and the Elite Neighborhood
By 1860, the west side was still undeveloped marshland.
In 1863, a law protected the neighborhood’s elite status by banning saloons, boarding houses, factories, and other undesirable uses within 800 feet of the park.
Taxes were levied with higher rates closer to the park to fund improvements.
After the Civil War, demand for housing soared; original landowners subdivided properties, increasing profits.
Lafayette Square became St. Louis’s most fashionable neighborhood.
Architecture and Lifestyle
Most houses built between 1835 and 1880 were large mansions of various styles, requiring 2 to 4 years to complete.
Construction involved many skilled artisans:
Stonemasons for foundations
Carpenters for framing
Bricklayers for encasing structures
Joiners for detailed woodwork
Painters and plasterers for walls and ornate ceilings
The park was a hub for leisure: strolls, cricket games, balls, and banquets.
Decline Begins
By the late 1890s, many original residents had left for Compton Heights or the Central West End, escaping city noise and bustle.
Though still affluent, Lafayette Square was no longer the premier address.
On May 27, 1896, a devastating cyclone/tornado swept through, destroying many buildings and leveling trees and the bandstand in the park.
While some fled, most rebuilt—but the tornado marked a turning point.
20th Century Challenges
In 1918, zoning laws preserved Lafayette Square as residential, but in 1923, the Missouri Supreme Court struck them down.
Commercial businesses rushed in: gas stations, grocery stores, confectionaries.
Post-World War II, the neighborhood and park fell into disrepair.
Slumlords subdivided mansions into boarding houses, neglecting upkeep.
The city acquired many properties but often left them vacant.
Lafayette Square was labeled “Slum D” and faced potential demolition.
Plans for a north-south highway threatened the neighborhood’s survival.
By 1960, Lafayette Square was among the city’s worst neighborhoods.
Restoration Efforts Begin
John Albury Bryan moved to 21 Benton Place in 1949 and witnessed the decay firsthand.
In 1955, he published a call to preserve Lafayette Square, arguing against neighborhood destruction and urging blending new construction with historic fabric.
The 1960s saw the first waves of rehabilitation amid a critical preservation crossroads.
Historic Preservation Milestones
The demolition of the Barlow Mansion (the first house built in the square) spurred residents to organize the Lafayette Square Restoration Committee in 1966.
The committee began raising money and awareness, organizing the first house tours in 1970—an event that draws nearly 10,000 annually today.
In 1971, a city planning study assessed the condition of 400 Victorian-era buildings.
5.1% sound with no repairs needed
35.7% needing minor rehab
41% needing major rehab
14.7% possibly feasible for rehab
3.5% beyond repair
The study detailed residential types: 88 single-family homes, 67 boarding houses, 331 multi-family residences, with a population of 3,255.
Commercial space totaled 2,900 feet of empty storefronts.
Neighborhood Plan and Community Growth
The 1971 plan aimed to:
Create a viable residential neighborhood
Preserve existing structures
Develop vacant lots with compatible new construction (no more than two-family units)
Separate commercial from residential areas
Relocate storefront churches to suitable locations
The 1970s saw dedicated residents like Ruth Kamphoefner restoring multiple houses despite financing and safety challenges.
In 1972, Lafayette Square became St. Louis’s first officially designated historic district and was soon listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Ongoing Community and Arts
In 1981, the Lafayette Square Arts Council formed to use arts to connect diverse city communities.
The city enacted Historic District Standards ordinances in 2012 and 2019, regulating restoration details from facades to interiors and signage.
Recent Strategic Planning
In 2021, the Lafayette Neighborhood Association launched a strategic plan focusing on:
Strengthening neighborhood coordination
Enhancing safety
Encouraging historic preservation
Fostering community inclusion
Supporting livability
They collaborate with city agencies and neighborhood organizations to preserve Lafayette Square’s character.
Conclusion
Featuring distinctive Second Empire mansard roofs, Italianate and Victorian mansions, Lafayette Square was once St. Louis’s premier neighborhood.
Despite decades of decline and near demolition, committed residents revived the area into a vibrant, vital community.
The neighborhood now hosts annual house tours, holiday markets, and continues striving to improve both homes and lives.
You can find more at:
Twitter: @showme_history
Facebook: ShowMeHistorySTL
Until next time, I’ll see you in the Lou.